© Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com/nj.com/TNS Wonder Bar, Asbury Park
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Despite the coronavirus and the plummeting economy, the Shore still exerts a powerful pull on New Jerseyans.
No better proof could be found than the packed beaches over the Fourth of July weekend, as tens of thousands of people braved the inevitable traffic apocalypse on the Parkway and flocked to beaches from Sandy Hook to Cape May.
What would we do without the Shore? I’d have to move, for one, because I’ve lived there nearly 25 years. I’ve lived all over the state but keep returning to the Shore, despite all the maddening qualities that seem guaranteed to keep everyone away.
In the best and worst of times, there is something about all that water, and sand, and sky, that beckons.
We all have our favorite beaches — and towns. Here is my list of the 25 best Shore towns. There are 100 or so places that could call themselves Jersey Shore towns: those on or within reasonable distance of the ocean, from Highlands to Cape May. These include sections of larger municipalities, the Ocean Groves, Bayvilles and Manahawkins of the world. Boy, was this a tough assignment. I love every Jersey Shore town (seriously!) for varying reasons. The Shore town where I live now didn’t even make the cut. And I love my town.
Pleasant Grove House and Museum 434-589-2016 271 Pleasant Grove Drive Palmyra, VA 22963. Fluvanna Community Center 434-842-3150 5725 James Madison Hwy Fork Union, VA. Then Ocean Grove is the place for you! The chance to just lie in the sun, get some summer reading done, or watch the kids play in the surf is a great release from the stress of everyday life. A walk or jog on the beach as the sun comes up over the Atlantic isn't bad, either. New Jersey Sea Glass. The state of New Jersey offers many opportunities for sea glass searching. First of all, it has approximately 140 miles (227 km) of ocean coastline, refered to in New Jersey as 'The Shore.' Jason Szabo at Fisherman’s Supply in Point Pleasant Beach said the bass fishing out front is very good with fish in the 24- to 36-inch range spread out from Sandy Hook to Island Beach State Park. The boats are getting them on jigs, shads and on the troll. He also had reports of bluefin tuna caught at Barnegat Ridge on Hogy epoxy and Ronz lures.
© Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com/nj.com/TNS boardwalk vendor, Seaside HeightsWhat factors went into this ranking? Live-ability, charm, curb appeal, shopping, neighborhoods and food scene, among others. In the end, it came down to, “Could I live here, and live here a long time?‘' For each town, I give a brief rundown — history, description, appeal — plus a list of must-visits. Many extremely popular and hyper-publicized Shore towns did not make the list — sorry about that. Let me be clear: This is not a ranking of the best Shore towns to visit as much as the best towns to live in. And you don’t need to have an ocean beach to qualify as a Shore town. My top-ranked town is one you’ve probably never visited. The list includes attractions, landmarks, eateries, etc. that are open. As of this writing, indoor dining is still not allowed at restaurants, so it’s takeout only there.
© Star-Ledger file photo/nj.com/TNS An aerial view of Seaside Heights and Seaside Park.25. Seaside Heights
Okay, so maybe Seaside Heights is on here mostly because of its boardwalk. For liveliness, licentiousness, looniness, libido and all-around low-rent charm, no boardwalk comes close to Seaside. I still think Wildwood is the greatest boardwalk of all time, but you can’t deny Seaside’s appeal. The first boardwalk here was built in 1915 by entrepreneur James Vanderslice, who added a carousel and pier. No other boardwalk has seen tougher times over the years. It was destroyed in a 1955 fire. Casino Pier was severely damaged in a 1965 fire. FunTown Pier, which opened in 1957, was leveled by Sandy.
You can't stop Seaside; you can only hope to contain it.
Visit: Maruca’s Tomato Pies (one of the best boardwalk slices); Dentato’s Clam Bar (for the sausage sandwiches); Kohr’s; Steaks Unlimited; Casino Pier; Polish Water Ice (watermelon ice!); Sunset Beach (bayfront, and free parking!).
24. Asbury Park
In the late 1880s, brush manufacturer James Bradley — known as the father of Asbury Park — opened a saltwater tank filled with sea lions for tourists’ amusement. Rolling chairs took visitors up and down the boardwalk.
Reminders of the town's glittering past are still around — the Casino Building, Convention Hall and the Paramount Theatre.
It's doubtful, though, Bradley would recognize Asbury today. Shops, bars and restaurants crowd Cookman Avenue, the main commercial drag, and surrounding streets. Glitzy condos have sprouted like mushrooms; it didn't take long for one, North Beach Asbury Park, to sell out.
Hip, hot, happening — Asbury is all these, but there is still room for throwbacks such as the Wonder Bar (photo), the divey Bond Street Bar and the legendary Stone Pony. Asbury, unlike many Shore towns, offers something for everyone.
Visit: Wonder Bar; Talula’s; Cookman Creamery; MOGO Korean Fusion Taco; The Galley Pizza & Eatery.
23. Manasquan
I spent the best years of my life here in the mid '90s, running up and down the asphalt boardwalk on days I thought I could run forever, but I'm still mad at the oceanfront condos later built just off Main Street. All is forgiven — almost anyway — which is why Manasquan sneaks onto this list. Robert Louis Stevenson spent six weeks here, writing parts of 'The Master of Ballantrae.' Today, the town claims the Jersey Shore's 'premier surfing beach,' and its Main Street is one of the Shore's more charming. And my beloved Acme still stands, which counts for something.
Visit: Algonquin Arts Theatre (when it re-opens); Squan Tavern; Manasquan Inlet, Carlson’s Corner.
22. Beach Haven
Beach Haven is LBI's throbbing commercial heart; if you're bored after an hour or two, check your pulse. Credit Archelaus Pharo, a Tuckerton businessman who in 1871 bought 666 acres of Long Beach Island property for the grand total of $243. The land eventually became Beach Haven. In 1880, a mere seven families lived on the entire island. That changed dramatically in 1914 with the opening of a causeway over Barnegat Bay and a boulevard to Beach Haven.
You'll never go hungry here; there's a head-spinning array of restaurants, cafes, bars, ice cream stands, bakeries, markets and more.
Visit: Fantasy Island Amusement Park; Harvey Cedars Shellfish Clam Bar; Ship Bottom Brewery (yes, the latter two are in Beach Haven); Crust & Crumb Bakery; Pearl Street Market; New Jersey Maritime Museum.
21. Bradley Beach
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Bradley Beach may forever stay in the shadow of Asbury Park, but this town of 4,200 people is a laid-back alternative to its too-cool-for-school next-door neighbor. Once known as Ocean Park, the post office told early investor William B. Bradner he would need to change its name due to its similarity to Oceanport. Why don’t you name it, the post office suggested, after one of your fellow investors: James Bradley?
Visit: Bradley Beach is one of the state’s best under-the-radar dining destinations. Start with Del Ponte’s Bakery, tiny but teeming with cakes, doughnuts, pastries and maybe the state’s biggest biscotti selection. Vic’s Italian Restaurant is a thin-crust legend. For breakfast, The Buttered Biscuit. Thai, try Bamboo Leaf. Ice Cream: Beach Plum.
20. Margate
Margate is not here just because of the world's most famous six-story elephant. Lucy the Elephant is the star attraction, but there's much to admire here: excellent beaches, a Shore small town vibe, proximity to Atlantic City (Margate was once known as South Atlantic City). About that elephant? Lucy, built in 1881 out of a million pieces of timber and 12,000 square feet of tin, is a magnificent must-see. She's a she, although those tusks of hers are found only on male elephants. You walk up one of Lucy's legs to reach the informative museum.
Visit: Steve & Cookie’s by the Bay; Margate Dairy Bar; Robert’s Place (for the wings); Lucy the Elephant.
19. Sea Bright
Highlands may claim to be 'Where the Jersey Shore Begins,' but Sea Bright is the first oceanfront town, the first in a long necklace of towns down to Belmar and beyond. The town, formed in 1889, has about 1,400 residents; the number swells, like most beach towns, in the summer, with local hotspots Donovan's Reef, the Rumrunner and Tommy's Tavern & Tap among the draws.
Visit: Gracie and the Dudes Ice Cream; GiGi’s New York Style Pizza & Restaurant (try the Pepi-Roni pizza!)
18. Ocean City
“America’s Greatest Family Resort” is the official town slogan, and Ocean City has also been called “America’s Happiest Seaside Town” (Coastal Living magazine). The town started, like Ocean Grove, as a Methodist summer resort. The Rev. William Wood, president of the Ocean City Association in the 1880s, set the tone early on: “Let us not falter: Order and decorum must be maintained.”
The boardwalk is impeccably maintained. In town, fuse boxes and garbage cans have been painted and turned into whimsical works of pop art. Here you’ll find the Shore’s most jam-packed schedule of summer events — from concerts and beauty pageants to french fry-sculpting contests and the Miss Crustacean Pageant, where hermit crabs are dolled up in tiny costumes and paraded on miniature floats. The Ocean City Baby Parade, the single greatest spectacle at the Jersey Shore, is held every August; it’s tentatively scheduled for Aug. 13.
On the boardwalk, there are clearly marked pathways for pedestrians, runners, bicyclists and surreys. Order and decorum are maintained to this day.
Visit: Air Circus (the coolest boardwalk shop anywhere); Kohr Bros.; Johnson’s Popcorn; Bob’s Lemonade; Tee Time mini-golf; Shriver’s; Brown’s (doughnuts); George’s Homemade Ice Cream; Bashful Banana; Crunchik’n.
17. Lavallette
Lavallette, between Point Beach and Seaside, is named after U.S. Navy Admiral Elie A. F. LaVallette, who distinguished himself in the battle of Lake Champlain and later commanded the U.S.S. Constitution. He legally anglicized his name to Lavallette in 1830. Commercial fishing was the town's first industry. In 1930, the year-round population was just 287, but the construction of Route 35 and the Garden State Parkway resulted in what the town website diplomatically calls a 'torrent of traffic' from North Jersey. Lavallette describes itself as 'a mature town, with little buildable space available.' Down the Shore, that's a good thing.
Visit: The Gazebo; Crab’s Claw Inn; Ohana Grill; Iceberg Ice Cream.
16. Atlantic Highlands
Bayfront setting, vibrant restaurant and cafe scene, quick access to New York City via ferry — what more could you want? Atlantic Highlands, not to be confused with nearby Highlands, is an architectural treasure trove, with Victorian, Queen Anne, Colonial Revival and other homes.
Visit: The Flaky Tart; Hartshorne Woods Park (unbeatable views, nearly 20 miles of trails); Carton Brewing; Mt. Mitchill Scenic Overlook (the view from the top is jaw-dropping — Sandy Hook, the Atlantic Ocean, the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge and the New York City skyline).
15. Point Pleasant
Wait, Point Pleasant and not Point Pleasant Beach? Bear with me here. Sure,”Point Beach” has the ocean and boardwalk and “Point” has neither, but the latter seems more live-able and down-to-earth. The town, divided in half by the Manasquan/Bay Head Canal, split from Brick in 1920. It was once a logging town, believe it or not. Today, Point Pleasant Beach has the glitz and glamor and oceanfront location; Point Pleasant has soul.
Visit: Point Creamery; Pat’s Pizza (excellent cheesesteaks); the Idle Hour.
14. Tuckerton
A Wawa sits smack in the middle of town, but don't hold that against this atmospheric bayfront town. Named after Ebenezer Tucker, Tuckerton, settled by Quakers in 1699, was formerly known as Clamtown, Fishtown and Middle-of-the-Shore. The Shore's first summer resort, Tucker's Island, may have been here. Tuckerton is a perennially underrated Shore destination, and well worth a detour (Exit 58 on the Parkway) the next time you're heading to AC.
Visit: Tuckerton Seaport (for the creek tours and the ferry to Beach Haven); Stanley H. “Tip' Seaman County Park; Stewart’s Drive-In.
13. Interlaken
Maybe the most under-the-radar Shore town, Interlaken is squeezed amid Deal, Allenhurst, Loch Arbour, Asbury Park and Ocean Township. The town website proclaims it as a 'small, quiet residential community.' Yeah, no kidding. The Grow and Show Garden Club encourages civic planting and roadside beautification. Lawn mowers, leaf blowers and chainsaws are prohibited on Sundays, 'unless in the case of emergency.' Neighboring Loch Arbour is smaller, but at least there's a restaurant/bar there. Interlaken seems frozen in Shore time.
Visit: Interlaken Park.
12. Island Heights
It's the Jersey Shore town many have never heard of, much less visited. Minutes from frenetic Seaside Heights and perched sleepily along the Toms River, Island Heights was formed, like Ocean Grove, as a religious camp meeting/summer resort in the late 1800s. The Pennsylvania Railroad once ran through town, but today the loudest noise you'll hear is probably your own breathing. There's no public beach, no commercial boardwalk, no rides, just peace and quiet.
Visit: The Corner Deli; Playa Bowls.
11. West Cape May
No, not Cape May, but sleepy West Cape May, where 1,020 people live at the end of Jersey. Drive down Sunset Boulevard, past the Chattel House Village series of shops (Exit Zero Magazine, The Bird House), past the Nature Conservancy’s South Cape Meadows (great bird-watching spot) to Sunset Beach in Lower, home of a touching evening flag-lowering ceremony (temporarily postponed) and the state’s spookiest attraction — the concrete ship Atlantus, which sank in 1926.
Visit: Beach Plum Farm; Willow Creek Winery; South Cape May Meadows (in West Cape May and Lower Township), 200 acres of dunes, wetlands, meadows, and a mile of protected beach. The Bread Lady — Elizabeth Degener — and her Enfin Farms roadside stand is on Sunset Boulevard in Lower.
10. Wildwood
The greatest boardwalk of all time is in Wildwood, and that alone puts this town on this list. Wildwood has long been Philadelphia’s summer playground. In 1909, more than 1 million postcards poured through the post office in the Wildwoods, named for the island’s tall trees and thick vegetation. Ocean Pier, distinguished by two 100-foot-high turreted towers, was renowned.
The state’s only boardwalk chapel is here; it’s called — what else? — the Boardwalk Chapel. Ride the Ferris wheel at night, above the boardwalk’s neon-lit magnificence. It’s an essential Jersey Shore experience.
And let’s not forget the famous (or infamous) Wildwood tram car. The five most annoying words of any Jersey Shore summer — “Watch the Tram Car, Please” — play on tape as the yellow cars rumble down the boardwalk. The voice belongs to Floss Stingel, who recorded the announcement in 1971.
Wildwood is more than the boardwalk, of course; the town sports its share of shops, hotels, restaurants and ice cream stands.
Visit: Lime Ricky World; Sam’s Pizza Palace; bocce courts at Leaming Avenue and the boardwalk; Kohr Bros.; Jake’s Steaks.
9. Surf City
We could put a half-dozen towns on LBI on this list, but somehow Surf City stands out. You’ve got to love the chutzpah here — it’s “the beautiful borough of Surf City,” with its “endless shopping” and “robust beaches.” How does a beach get robust anyway? Surf City — turn left as you come off the causeway — is less tony than, say, Harvey Cedars and Holgate, and there is a down-to-earth feel about the place. Any town with a classic five-and-dime (Surf City 5 & 10, in photo) is aces in my Shore book.
Visit: Boulevard Clams; Sandbox Cafe; Woodies Drive-In; Shore Fire Grille; Scojo’s.
8. Spring Lake
Home to the Jersey Shore's longest non-commercial boardwalk, Spring Lake features one of the Shore's more picturesque downtowns and aptly named Divine Park (shown here), which wraps around Spring Lake. The grand Essex and Sussex Hotel, now condominiums, is the main landmark on the oceanfront strand. No meters in the downtown area; three-hour parking limit.
Visit: Divine Park; Scone Pony, one of my favorite bakeries Down the Shore.
7. Highlands
No Shore town has quite the views like Highlands, with its stunning panoramas of Sandy Hook Bay, the Atlantic Ocean and the NYC skyline. The town — 'Where the Jersey Shore Begins' — boasts the highest point of land on the coast from Texas to Maine (226 feet above sea level). The town, once known as Seaside, became Highlands in 1900. Gertrude Ederle, the first woman to swim the English Channel, spent her summers in Highlands training in the daunting currents beneath the Highlands bridge. Take Ocean Boulevard in Atlantic Highlands and follow its winding upward journey to Highlands, with great waterfront views and homes none of us can afford.
Visit: Bahrs; the 25th annual Clam Festival, in August.
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6. Cape May
Cape May is one of the nation’s Victorian jewels and the Jersey Shore’s most romantic town, with its postcard-pretty inns/B&Bs and generally unhurried manner. And what other Shore town allows you a grace period on your expired meter? “The Nation’s Oldest Seaside Resort” is named after Dutch captain Cornelius Jacobsen Mey, who explored the area in the early 1600s. In normal times, there are free movies on the beach, a clamshell pitching tournament, and several acclaimed music festivals.
Visit: Emlen Physick Estate; Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts and Humanities; Washington Street Mall (pedestrians only); the Mad Batter; Hot Dog Tommy’s; C-View Inn.
5. Ocean Grove
There is no Jersey town quite like Ocean Grove, the 'Jewel of the Jersey Shore.' Oceanfront setting, charming main street (Main Avenue), cute shops, ample restaurants, maybe the state's most splendid structure (the Great Auditorium). And did we mention the 100 or so tents residents call home in the summer (rules: no barbecues, no dogs, and definitely no loud music). Ocean Grove, part of Neptune Township, is a dry town, but you can have beer or wine on your tent porch, as long as it's in a cup (no cans or glasses allowed). They don't make towns like this anymore.
Visit: The splendid Great Auditorium (current capacity for services is 100; masks required); Day’s Ice Cream.
4. Brigantine
Brigantine may always be Atlantic City's little brother, but the former wouldn't have it any other way. No casinos or clubs, no high-end restaurants, no gigantic boardwalk, no industry — Brigantine bills itself as 'An Island You'll Love for Life.' Legend goes that Captain Kidd once buried a treasure chest here. Good luck finding it. One cool thing: You can drive on the beach with four-wheel drive, as long as you obtain a permit.
Visit: Aversa’s Bakery (the Shore’s best rolls and sticky buns); Ernest & Son; Marine Mammal Stranding Center; The Cove.
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3. Barnegat Light
Having one of the state’s great classic diners (Mustache Bill’s, shown here) might have been enough to put Barnegat Light on this list. When you add the state’s best-known lighthouse (Barnegat Light, known as Old Barney) and an atmospheric, end-of-the-road feel (it’s the northernmost community on Long Beach Island), it’s a Shore small-town slam dunk. Viking Village, one of the state’s commercial fishing ports, is here. Note: Barnegat Light is currently closed due to the coronavirus.
Visit: Mustache Bill’s Diner (open on the weekends); Viking Fresh off The Hook, for seafood platters and sandwiches.
2. Strathmere
Being one of just five free Jersey Shore oceanfront beaches should get you on any list, but Strathmere, part of Upper Township, is another Shore town notable for what it doesn't have: no boardwalk, no amusement parks or water slides, no parking meters, not even a pizzeria. But there's The Deauville Inn (whose website asks 'Where the hell is Strathmere?'), Uncle Bill's Pancake House, Mildred's Strathmere Restaurant and The Old Shack, a sandwich spot. And don't forget Twisties, a red-shingled neighborhood bar with a great bayfront setting. The post office is on the ground floor of a faded white house.
Visit: Twisties on the Bay (highly recommended: the pork chops, and pean-seared scallops)
1. Port Republic
No New Jersey municipality lives up less to its official “city” designation than Port Republic, a town of barely 1,000 on the Mullica River. “Let’s all gear up for some beautiful Spring weather. I hear the birds chirping!” read a message earlier this year from Mayor Gary Giberson on the Port News newsletter. Thousands of people drive past this picture-postcard town every week without realizing it; it’s to your left as you cross the Mullica River southbound on the Garden State Parkway around milepost 50. There are modest tree-shaded homes on sizeable lots. Atlantic City is minutes and another planet away.
Visit: Port Side Cafe; Harry Bowen Memorial Field.
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Peter Genovese may be reached at pgenovese@njadvancemedia.com.
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